Myanmar

MYANMAR

Myanmar, where do I even begin. First and foremost, for those of you who don’t know, Myanmar is the old Burma, situated between China, India, Thailand and Laos right off of the Bay of Bengal and the Andaman sea. I don’t mean to give you a book report but most people in the world have no clue what Myanmar is so I have to give you a short lesson on this amazing country. Myanmar began with the migration of three groups, the Mons from Cambodia, the Mongol Burmans from the eastern Himalayas and the Thai tribes from Thailand. In the 11th century Bagan, one of the main religious centers of the world, was the first to gain control of the territory but failed to unify the disparate racial groups. For the next 250 years Burma remained in chaos and in 1824 the British invaded and soon after Burma became a part of British India. When this happened, Burma became a major rice exporter and Indians and Chinese arrived to complicate things even more. In 1937 Burma was separated from their British rule and talks began to develop around the country for self rule. The Japanese drove the British out of Burma in WWII and tried to enlist Burma’s support politically. In 1948 Burma decided against Japans ideas and became independent, immediately breaking up into hill tribes, communists, Muslims, and Mons who soon after all revolted. Myanmar was granted independence on January 4th, 1948, a day that marks the widespread civil unrest, war and insurgency that defines the country. The Chinese invaded and participated in the local wars and illegal opium trade, until the Burmese army regained the heartland in 1950 and 1951. Over the next 25 years the economy crumbled under Socialist rule, and in 1987 the people had dealt with enough. Huge demonstrations called for the General’s resignation and massive confrontations between pro-democracy demonstrators and the military resulted in 3,000 deaths in a six week period. The SLORC was formed and elections were promised to the people in 1989. However this never occurred and the revolts continued until an innumerable amount of innocent protestors were killed.

The opposition quickly formed a coalition party called the National League for Democracy under the leadership of Aung San Suu Kyi, and due to her overwhelming popularity, the government put her under house arrest for ten years in 1989. Can you imagine a country where a noble prize winner, who believes in democracy and freedom is put under house arrest for ten years? Prime Minister General Khin Nyunt drafted a seven point ‘roadmap’ to ‘disciplined democracy’ in 2003, but it was really placed as a diversion for the US, which along with Europe and Japan, tightened sanctions against Myanmar following Aung San Suu Kyi’s arrest.

Myanmar’s name was changed to Burma in 1989 by the military government, SLORC, because they felt that ‘Burma’ was a vestige of European Colonialism. But many people do not recognize the name change because they argue that such a drastic change should be approved in national referendum. So the first thing I noticed after arriving in port was that neither Burma or Myanmar is politically correct. Until 1984 Myanmar was closed to tourism so although many people do travel into the country from Thailand or other bordering countries, it is rare to get a visa and even rarer to be let in once you arrive. Before we arrived at the port we were afraid that the boat could be turned away. It was always a possibility but after a half a day of immigration, longer than any other port, we were cleared. Even still, we were not allowed to disembark the boat until the next morning, so for 12 hours, we had to sit on the boat and make the time pass before we could step foot onto the country’s soil.

The journey in the port was breathtaking. Normally we pull in around 5am, so that when students wake up and look out their windows, the see the countries for the first time. However, like I said, Myanmar was a different story so in the middle of my last class on A day, I watched as we pulled into the country. In a matter of minutes the beautiful water in the Bay of Bengal changed from a deep blue to a musty, dark brown and we were told that all water sources were cut off until Vietnam. Although we were told that our ship was docking in Yangon, we were actually porting in Thawila, a small, fishing village about 45 minutes out of the city. With a beautiful sunset in the background, we slowly pulled in to port, passing small fishing villages with children running out to see what was going on. It was amazing, and for miles and miles all I could see was farm land, long boats, and small homes made of straw, not one building in sight.

FRIDAY, MARCH 17
After anxiously awaiting out departure, my friends Adam, Dave, Cade and I set out at 6 am for our 45 minute drive to the city of Yangon. My initial reaction of Myanmar was that it was similar to India but much cleaner and less polluted. The people live in better conditions, but still seemingly anywhere. Yangon is the capital of Myanmar, but unlike most Asian cities whose populations reach over 5 million, Yangon takes on the feel of a provincial town rather than an international city. It is covered in trees, gardens and temples, that lay directly next door to tea houses, hotels, and shops. The dynamics of the two make for one of the most interesting places I have ever been. We got into town and ate a delicious breakfast at the Traders Hotel, they even had challah, which we were all very excited about. Then at a quarter past 8 we decided to walk the streets and see where it took us. I learned a ton about Burmese culture during this time- I saw a women selling baby sparrows out of a cage on the street corner, smoked my first cheroot or Burmese hand rolled cigarette, and meet a group of children who loved having their pictures taken. In the two hours we roamed the streets of downtown Yangon, I was not once hassled or harassed; I can’t begin to explain how friendly the people are, and how refreshing it was after India to be allowed to explore the city without feeling threatened at all times. In Myanmar the official exchange rate of US dollars into Kyats is 6, however the black market thrives there and because it can’t be beat, even hotels will exchange at the black market rate of 1,100 kyat to a dollar. However, my idiot guy friends met some guy on the street who claimed to be a money exchanger and thought it was a good idea to do so. He took us into a small tea house and slyly slid money under the table, straight out of his shirt pocket. It ended up being a great idea because for every American dollar, I received 1,300 kyats. So of course, with our extremely large wads of money in hand we headed to Bogyoke Market, otherwise known as Scotts Market, where supposedly the best market shopping in Yangon is. After being directed and re-directed about 10 times we finally found our way to Scotts Market and was shocked at the amazing things being sold. Jade is sold everywhere for prices you cant imagine, paintings for $3 American dollars, beautiful fabrics for .50 cents, and antiques of every kind from all over Asia. The problem is that America has a ban on Burmese imports and unless it is ‘hand made’ it will most likely be confiscated at customs, so of course I made some great purchases but had to be careful what to buy. I bought my first longyi, which is the customary Burmese clothing that all women and girls wear. It is a long piece of decorated fabric, similar to the saris that Indian women wear.

After a great time in the market we left and decided to head to a tea house in a local area. We jumped in a cab and after a 10 minute drive out of the city, we ended up at a small tea house where we were the only foreigners in sight. Everyone in the restaurant wanted to talk to us- it was amazing. They wanted to know who we were, where we were from, what we were studying; and yet even those who didn’t speak English, they all knew we were from ‘the boat’. Then this adorable man with a small bun on the top of his head came bustling over. His name was Khan, Uncle Khan as he forced us to call him, and he was a variety of things including a tea house manager, tour guide, translator and more. We talked for a while, learned all types of things we should do and decided that on Monday when we returned from out trips throughout Myanmar, we would meet back with Uncle Khan to take us around town. We said our goodbyes and headed to Kandawgyi Lake, a small lake surrounding Yangon where the Kandawgyi National Park and Royal Barge pagoda sit. Both amazing sights, but even still the most interesting part of the day, by far, was interacting with the amazing people. Oh yeah, and we saw Himalayan bears in the process of mating, the boys thought it was the greatest thing they’d ever seen.

We headed back to the boat after what seemed like a very long day, only to board buses and head back to the Yangon Airport for our flight to Bagan. There I met Lauren, Parr, and Brooke who were all on the exploration to Bagan as well. We got into a tiny 13 row propeller plane and headed to Bagan, the ancient city of Myanmar. After an hour long bumpy flight, we made our decent into the Bagan airport, but what looked like an ornate temple. Known as the city of four million pagodas, Bagan is one of, if not, the richest archeological sights in all of Asia. During the reign of King Anawratha in 1044 CE, over 2,000 pagodas, temples and shrines were built and scattered amongst the plains of Bagan. Flying over the breathtaking scene of ancient pagodas, and ruins, with no sign of the 21st century in sight was mesmerizing. Directly from the airport we headed with our guide Kyaw, pronounced kind of like Joe, to Tayokepye temple. To be honest, second to the Taj, Bagan is probably the hardest thing I have to describe yet, because there is no way to put the experience into words. Tayokepye temple, made by hand of red bricks, is large in size yet small in structure. Many earthquakes over the years caused walls to crumble, so many temples seem in ruins, but in reality they are in phenomenal shape. Inside, there are shrines of Buddha’s, and Gods, and stairs to the top are so small that everyone had to crouch and shrink to fit through. Many people scale the temple, and climb to the top, only you have to remember that as in India, shoes are not permitted. Everything is covered in dust and debris, yet it is so beautiful and the view from the top makes the climb worth while. As I looked out over the horizon and saw the never ending abundance of temples and pagodas, I asked Kyaw how a country with no education, or health care system in place had the money to build these elaborate temples. He explained to me that Bagan was the birth place of Buddhism in Myanmar, and the people believed that if they built shrines and temples, an extremely pious deed, they would be reincarnated in a higher caste in the next life. There are no Ipods here, no television sets or car stereos, only temples, pagodas and the occasional festivals to worship and pray to the Gods. Once the stairs ended, I scaled the rest of the temple and found a spot on the top where no one else was. I sat by myself and watched the South Asian sun go down.

We left the Temple and headed to our accommodations for the next four days. Myanmar is known for its awesome hotels but I was certainly not expecting anything like this. We arrived at the Bagan Thande Hotel, and in the midst of ancient pagodas and temples lay small bungalows with thatched roofs and beautiful greenery. The hotel sat on the bank of the famous Irrawaddy river where small long boats and fisherman were out finding their daily catch. We ate a delicious Burmese meal, and watched a traditional puppet show, which is based on the classical myths of Burmese culture. We went to our amazing room, which I shared with Parr, and went to bed for an early morning wake up.


SATURDAY, MARCH 18
I had a great plan to wake up at sunrise, which was 5:35 am and rent a bike with my friend Jim to go to a nearby temple and climb before the sun rose. Unfortunately when I awoke at 5, my face had broken out in rash, so I decided the bike excursion was probably not the best idea. Despite my allergy issues, we boarded the buses and went to Shwesandaw Temple. Explaining each and every temple I saw will do nothing for you, so I suggest that if you’re interested, google them, because they are amazing and something you really should see. We then headed to Ananda temple, one of the largest and most beloved temples in all of Bagan. We partook in the Buddhist ceremony of giving all of our ‘meritorious’ deeds over to Buddha as a prayer for our family and friends; each of us were handed a long wooden pole to ring three different bells in succession. I wandered from the group, and walked around the massive temples silently, watching monks in prayer. I met a young women outside the temple whose husband ran our hotel and we talked for a while. In Myanmar, many women and children wear thanaka, a paste made from bark and water that they place on their face to protect their skin from sun and other damaging elements. She brought me to her home, which was only a few hundred yards from the temple, gave me a cup of tea, and applied the cooling thanaka to my face. When I offered her some money, she kindly refused and I responded that in America, when someone does something kind and generous for you, you hug. It was the first time she had hugged a stranger and as we said goodbye, I wished that I was able to spend more time with her.

I rejoined my group, left the temple and went to a primary school in a small village area. The school is made of huts and grass buildings in the middle of a desert. It is no larger than three or four little rooms, and yet it holds 800 or more students every year. It is only a primary school but because of over population, students have no where else to go. The teachers allow them to stay at the same school, even though the are too old for it or they lack the space. The administrators themselves admit that the education is quite under par, but it is all they have; it was sad to see the teachers explaining to us how they understand how little they can actually accomplish, but unlike many other places we have visited, there is a great effort made. It is summer vacation now, but they had the children from the surrounding villages come in for one day of summer school. We walked into a small room, and sitting on the floor in rows were about eighty third graders. They were as happy to see us as we were to see them. The children were split up, girls on one side of the room, boys on the other. The girls were so adorable, so excited to see American girls- what we looked like, our clothes, our hair; their faces, covered in thanaka, with smiles from ear to ear lit up the room. I was happy that I had the thanaka on as well because I could tell that it made them feel more comfortable. I sat down on the floor with them, and pulled out a can of bubbles I had brought with me. They loved it, and we blew bubbles together for a while. Then the teacher said that they had prepared some songs for us, and the kids broke into song, from Burmese classics to the American alphabet. Then we did the same, singing ‘Twinkle Twinkle’, ‘Mary Had a Little Lamb’ and of course, the A,B,C’s. They loved it and I could’ve stayed the entire day, but we had to go. We left the school, and went to a nearby village, where I think most of the children actually lived.

Getting off of our air-conditioned bus into the sweltering building was transforming. I know people live like this, I’ve heard of it, I’ve seen it countless times on this trip, and yet every time I am more and more amazed at how it actually occurs. With nothing but small homes made of wood, palm leaves and woven grass, these families lives amongst one another in such harmony. I watched as over 20 women and children bathed in a wide-opening using tubs and buckets of water. Sitting in the homes were old men and women, great grandparents and ancestors smoking cheroots, and doing nothing but watching, silently. The children mauled us, I mean attacked us, and wouldn’t leave our sides. Five kids in particular stayed with me and Parr the entire time. We taught them to play patty-cake, and we explained how to them how to high five, smile, and laugh using English words. And of course, we explained to them the American hug, and got them each to hug us, as they blushed and laughed hysterically. We left the village and went to a restaurant for another delicious lunch. We then headed to another amazing temple, statuesque and covered in gold. As I walked around Shwezigon Temple I found a monk under a tree praying, and watched him for a while. Then we had the awesome chance to ride pony carts around Bagan, which is said to be one of the best ways to see it, other than hot air balloons or planes. Every road, every corner, everywhere you look in Bagan there is another fascinating archeological relic to be seen, and driving by on fast paced buses is not the way to do that. So Parr and I jumped into a small cart driven by a horse, for a ride around Bagan. Our driver rode us all around, finally dropping us off at Pyatthada Temple where we could stay and watch the sunset. We spent the rest of the evening at Nandar Restaurant where we had a traditional Baganese meal, and puppet show performance.

SUNDAY, MARCH 19
At 8am we arrived at Nyaung Oo vegetable market in lower Bagan. This market was bursting with sounds and smells from every direction, we barely knew where to look. Women were spooning food into packages for purchase with their bare hands, children were selling everything running barefoot in the streets as animals, cars and people passed. There were men praying in temples and shrines that surrounded the markets, and many people eating in tea houses as well. I loved the market, but on this particular morning that allergic reaction I previously told you about flared up, and I looked like a blowfish. The sweltering heat and pollution were not helpful, so I walked around for as long as I could before getting back on the bus. We then drove for about an hour until we arrived at Mt. Popa, a small mountain that houses one of Bagans most sacred temple on top. The village at the base of the mountains’ entire economy is based on people who come from all over Myanmar to climb Mt. Popas 700 + steps to the temple. The steps circle the entire mountain, and as I walked up, I was constantly surrounded by temples, sellers, monks, and monkeys- tons and tons of monkeys! Once SAS found out about my swollen face, I was told by the Dean to stay in the hotel for the day. I clearly didn’t listen but once I began to climb Mt. Popa, I realized that it wasn’t the best idea. I climbed about 500 of the 700 steps and reluctantly turned around and headed back down. It was breathtaking, and although I was unable to go to the top, I was proud to have experienced the magic of Mt. Popa.

On our way back to Bagan, our tour guide Kyaw told us stories of his experiences in America and with the American tourists he had guided around Myanmar, including Charles Schwab and Amy Tan. Did you hear me, I said Amy Tan! I was half asleep on the bus and the second Kyaw said her name I ran to the front of the bus. Amy Tan’s last book, Saving Fish From Drowning, which I coincidentally finished the day before we arrived in port, was all about Myanmar. When she came to the country to study, Kyaw and his brother were her guides, and if you look in the back on the book, she thanks her trusty guides for all their help. I was extremely excited and couldn’t believe that my favorite author and I explored Myanmar with the same two people. Talk about a small world. When we arrived back in Bagan we went to Kyaw mom’s house, Ms. Moe, where they produce beautiful lacquer ware with mother of pearl, a very common item manufactured in Bagan. Then, after some time at the hotel, we were taken to one of the most special things I’ve done all semester, a dinner at one of Bagans most fascinating temples. Dhammayangyi Temple was made by a very evil King who died before the temple was completed. Because of his bad karma, no one wanted to complete it and therefore, it remains only ¾ done, and still stands exactly how it was left thousands of years ago. The dinner was delicious and accompanied by a Burmese dance and music performance by local villagers. The tour guides had to get permission from the government for this event, and we thanked them immensely.

MONDAY, MARCH 20
The next morning we arose and boarded the plane for our flight back to Yangon. There was an entire days itinerary planned, most of which I had done on my first day in the city, but due to my allergic reaction, I was picked up by the doctors upon arrival in the city. I went back to the boat, received medication and slept for a couple of hours. How could I possibly sit on the boat with another day of Myanmar yet to explore? So I covered my face with a shawl and snuck out of the boat, took the bus to the city, and found my friends in the Traders Hotel. I walked around the city for a couple of hours, talking to people and seeing as much as possible before heading back to the boat for a good nights sleep.

Although my time in Myanmar was slightly spoiled by my allergic reaction (funny, considering I’m not really allergic to anything), Myanmar was everything I thought it would be. Its such a shame that most people in the world have no idea what or where Myanmar is. On our way back in Yangon, our guide spoke openly with us about the politics and government in Burma, something that is extremely risky to do for people who are found even discussing politics will be arrested. There is no power for the people in Myanmar, and although they tried many times, when their loved ones have been innocently killed at such high rates, they can’t help but give up and lose hope. Their one hope lays with Aung San Suu Kyi whose house we passed on the way into the city. Our guide was proud to be a supporter, but would only call her ‘The Lady’ because saying her name outloud is a criminal offense. Many people have problems with traveling to Burma because any reputable tour company is supported by the government, and as foreigners the last thing we want to do is support their military regime. However, if being able to see the country and learn about the people needs to be done through the government, than better we learn about it than not. The people of Myanmar were astonishing, and everywhere we went we were met with such kindness and generosity. I wish I had been able to see more, places like Inle Lake and Mandalay, and more of Yangon, but in the short amount of time we spent there I feel in love with it. I feel so thankful to have had the opportunity to go where very few people have or will be able to, and I hope that I have the chance to return.

With love,
Your little adventurer...
Farryn

-for those of you who are interested, I have attached an article on tourism and Myanmar below. I read this before departing for my trips, and found it very informative and interesting. Its long, but if you want to get a better understanding of Myanmar you should take a look at it. Lots of love!




The Influence of Politics on Tourism: The Case of Myanmar
Tourists contemplating a visit to any country with a history of human-rights abuses are faced with a similar ethical dilemma: keep yourself and your tourist dollars away, or go and bear witness, facilitate the exchange of ideas and support local businesses. Visitors to Myanmar are faced with such a dilemma and some profound political and ideological decision-making. Tourism marketing strategies in Myanmar have focused on a picturesque and idyllic landscape, imbued with spirituality as a consequence of its Buddhist traditions, and inhabited by peaceful people whose traditional culture has been preserved. However, this image of a country at peace denies the harsh realities that underlie such representations.

Myanmar is the largest state in mainland South-East Asia and is relatively rich in natural resources, including petroleum, timber, marine fisheries, and natural gas. It also has a unique cultural and natural heritage. Myanmar’s history dates back over 5000 years, but modern Burma has its origins in the 19th century. This was a period of immense change, and paved the way for colonial occupation as Burma was annexed by Britain in 1886 following three Anglo-Burmese wars. After independence from Britain in 1948, an elected government held power until 1962 when there was a military coup, and armed forces have exercised control ever since. The regime followed a policy of deliberate isolationism and sought to create a centralized economy entitled “the Burmese Way to Socialism”. Like regimes in Singapore, Malaysia and China, the rulers of Myanmar argued that their people were served best by economic development.

However, this philosophy led to an economic crisis and increasing unpopularity culminating in an uprising in 1988 which was quelled with great severity and left many fatalities. The State Law and Order Restoration Council (SLORC) - now the State Peace and Development Council (SPDC) - was installed as the next military government and it attempted to introduce a more market-oriented system, organizing elections in 1990 when the National League for Democracy (NLD) won over 80% of the vote. However, the party, headed by Aung San Suu Kyi, has not been permitted to take office and this has provoked domestic discontent and strong condemnation overseas.

Colonial place names were abandoned after the upheavals of 1988 and Burma and its capital of Rangoon became Myanmar and Yangon respectively. The authorities have suppressed the opposition by severely restricting its activities, keeping supporters under regular surveillance and imprisoning many dissidents. As well as the denial of freedom of political association and expression, other unacceptable practices have been documented in Myanmar over a number of years such as forced labor and relocation. The leadership is also linked to trafficking in opiates and amphetamines. Aung San Suu Kyi, who was awarded the Nobel Peace Prize in 1991, is occasionally freed from house arrest and still fights for constitutional amendments, but concessions are unlikely in the immediate future and the SPDC seems set to retain power, despite signs of factionalism amongst the ruling elite.

This type of politics has adversely affected Myanmar’s relations with parts of the international community and the actions of its leaders are frequently criticized. The European Union (EU) formulated a Common Position on Myanmar in 1996 consisting of an arms embargo, visa restrictions and bans on defense links, senior bilateral visits and non-humanitarian aid. Individual European countries have taken other steps. The UK for example, discourages trade, investment and tourism with/in Myanmar. The US has also undertaken action with a Presidential Order in 1997 prohibiting new investment by US persons. Relationships between the two countries remain on shaky ground. In 2005, analysts suggested that the relocation of key government ministries by Myanmar’s military junta was prompted by fears of an invasion by the US, which has branded Myanmar “an outpost of tyranny.”

Tourism to Myanmar has been both promoted and deterred. On one side, the SPDC, the ruling elite, opens its arms to foreign visitors. For over 25 years, tourism has been accepted as an industry of potential importance and a major foreign exchange generator. In 1990 a Tourism Law recognized tourism as a significant economic activity and ended the state monopoly, allowing local and foreign private operators to run hotels, transport businesses, and tour guiding services. A Hotel and Tourism Law in 1993 affirmed official support, setting out objectives related to the growth of the hotel and tourism sector. Myanmar’s cultural heritage and scenic beauty were to be exploited, maximizing employment opportunities, while fostering international friendship and understanding. In short, the SPDC saw tourism as an opportunity to disseminate a favorable picture of Myanmar to the rest of the world.

There followed a period of rapid expansion in hotels, airports and the number of tourism operators and agencies. Ecotourism began to be promoted and Nature Reserves were designated with the help of international environmental organizations. In 1995 the Orient Express began luxury cruises hailed as an expression of confidence in Myanmar’s tourism. Yangon airport is in the midst of an ambitious expansion that will enable it to handle Boeing 747s and up to 2.7 million passengers a year. Myanmar’s state-run newspapers and television endlessly trumpet the regime’s efforts to upgrade the country’s infrastructure as a means of developing the economy and facilitating tourism.

But the high-speed growth in tourism infrastructure did not come without a price. It caused mass upheaval, with millions of laborers required to erect the suitable tourism infrastructure, and to restore cultural sites as tourist attractions (often crudely according to archeologists and conservators). Tourism development was directly linked to human rights violations, and there were reports in the 1990s of the government conscripting labor to complete infrastructure and tourism projects. People were also displaced from their homes to make way for tourism. For example, people in Palaung were reportedly uprooted and moved into “ethnic villages,” built for tourism purposes. Whether these peoples of these ethnic groups object to their cultural identities being commodified for tourism purposes is not a concern of the SPDC.

In reaction, many groups, both inside and outside Myanmar, have opposed tourism, including Suu Kyi and her party. They have urged travelers to refrain from visiting Myanmar until there is a political transition to democracy. In 2002 she said “Burma will always be here, and when it is democratic it will be a place that I think tourists will enjoy visiting with no qualms and guilty feelings.” Her anti-tourism campaign has proved to be successful, with travelers and their dollars staying away. Whilst tourism has expanded rapidly in neighboring Asian countries, Myanmar still receives relatively few tourists. In 2004, nearly 657,000 visited Myanmar, compared to neighboring Thailand, which attracted more than 10 million.

Non-government organizations that support Myanmar’s pro-democracy movement are also raising the call to world travelers, urging them to avoid travel to Myanmar and thus prevent the SPDC from obtaining the hard currency and global legitimacy it needs to survive. These NGOs stress that tourism fosters an illusion of peace and regularity while providing foreign exchange to pay for arms which strengthen the military. It thus fortifies the regime whose members may benefit personally and politically from any increase in arrivals. The Burma Campaign UK – which refers to the country by its former name – has lined up politicians and celebrities to back the “I’m not going” campaign. In February 2005 Tony Blair, the British Prime Minister, joined such stars as Susan Sarandon and Ian McKellen in pledging not to vacation in Myanmar and urging others to do the same.

However, there are some outside analysts that believe tourism should be encouraged in Myanmar, despite the political situation. They suggest that human rights abuses are not confined to Myanmar which does not deserve to be singled out, and argue that tourism can break down barriers and accelerate economic progress which improves the lives of local people. Some of these advocates have vested interests in promoting tourism. For example, one tour operator, that describes itself as Britain’s leading specialist for Myanmar, asserts that contact with the free world does more good than isolation and that a pro-active tourist policy for the country is the moral choice. A cruise company that visits the country implied that any abuses are exaggerated and raises doubts as to whether they exist at all.

Others say that it is the right of tourists to visit and make up their own minds. The General Manager of the largest travel agency in Myanmar has explained that curiosity about the region is so great, that political issues are secondary. “We believe that travelers from abroad should go there to see, and judge for themselves. Only then would they be qualified to comment.” Even producers of guide books have been drawn into the controversy, with the pressure group Tourism Concern attacking Lonely Planet for publishing a Myanmar edition. The publisher maintains that tourism aids many ordinary Burmese who are against any boycott, and that forced labor is rarely attributable to tourism alone.

It has been suggested that tourists who don’t go to Myanmar have been duped into hypocrisy by a clever public relations campaign. Many of the travelers who avoid Myanmar take vacations in Fidel Castro’s Cuba, a dictatorship with its own share of human-rights abuses and stifled opposition voices. Western travelers also travel by the millions to China despite the Tiananmen Square massacre and the continual repression of Falun Gong practitioners. Cambodia, Vietnam and Laos – other Asian countries with less-than-enlightened rulers – are experiencing a rapid growth in tourism. Few people stay away from India because of its caste system or because of child labor in factories. They travel to Turkey despite its policies towards its Kurdish minority, and flocked to Bali’s beaches when East Timor was under the brutal subjugation of Indonesia. In fact, Amnesty International, the human rights organization, declared in 1999 that as tourism destinations stand, Florida is the worst case of human rights abuse. So why not boycott tourism in Florida?

In addition, tourism is also not the only industry that does not equate ethics with economy when deciding policies. A report in the New International in 1996, stated that both French and US oil companies were using forced labor in Myanmar to undertake gas pipeline projects, which resulted in the forced relocation of indigenous communities. These issues do not receive the same high media coverage as the alleged crimes of the Myanmar Government in the pursuit of tourism revenues.

There are those who suggest that travel to even the worst countries generally benefits both the travelers and the locals. In Myanmar, a lion’s share of tourist dollars does end up in pockets of the military junta, and a large percentage escapes the country in leakages, but much also trickles down to individuals and local businesses desperate for income. Travelers returning from Myanmar report that most local people are against the travel boycott. Travel enhances friendships between peoples and facilitates cultural and political exchange. In the case of repressive countries such as Myanmar, it may also allow visitors to bear witness to local conditions. Just as the growth of ecotourism has generated support for the environmental movement, so human-rights-conscious travel can help form opinions that could be far more useful to those who struggle against repressive regimes than travel boycotts would be.

It is clear from the arguments above that the appropriateness of attempts to boycott tourism is unclear and its efficacy is equally debatable. The low tourism figures to date do suggest that tourism is depressed, possible as a result of the boycott, but there are other determinants that have impeded expansion rates. Some growth has taken place, and it is important to note that discussion about the ethics of visiting Myanmar is not one of relevance in many of Myanmar’s source markets. For example, for the Taiwanese, the dispute about human rights seems less important than matters of personal safety, customs regulations and price. Although Myanmar remains one of the poorest countries in the world, there are some signs of more positive economic trends. The opening up of the country after rejection of the socialist-style planned economy has encouraged a degree of accommodation with the rest of the world. Tourism has both benefited from and assisted in this process. Aang San Suu Kyi’s attitude is of relevance in determining any altering in international relations. Once opposed to all aid, investment and tourism until the restoration of democracy, commentators suggest that now she might be modifying this stance.

To conclude, the recent fortunes of Myanmar’s tourism are clearly tied to various manifestations of its politics. The instability of the military regime has been a deterrent to travel, and unattractive images of its leaders, associations of political repression and arguments that tourism is partly responsible for human rights abuses represent strong disincentives in certain markets. The features and actions of Myanmar’s government seem to have hindered tourism and prevented the country from realizing its potential as a popular tourism destination. Until the underlying political tensions are resolved and new policies put in place leading to improvements both in realities and perceptions, Myanmar’s tourism industry is unlikely to thrive. The omission of two key groups from this discussion should be acknowledged: the local population who do not have the right of free speech, and the tourists themselves who have yet to be surveyed.